Friday I finally managed to get up at an early enough hour to enjoy the morning chill. I packed up my tiny campsite and caught some close-enough-to-sunrise photos at the seawall picnic area. It was time to say farewell to this side of the island, I was heading all the way East to the one-way scenic loop. It's a two-lane road so I could go as slow as I pleased without ever worrying about cars behind me needing to pass. By the time I made it to that side of the Island I was still one of the very few vehicles on the road. I drove with the windows down and the temperature was the perfect level of completely refreshing cold air while still being bearable.
My first moment of bliss came at a little meandering stream with a nice mountain in the background. I hiked about 100 yards for some nice pictures and views.

Just before entering the one-way section of the loop I made a quick detour to see the Schooner Head Overlook. There was a cool little cave/overhang along the cliffside that reminded me of the Goonies.
I didn't quite realize how popular Sand Beach was but I got there so early that I basically had the best parking spot. This was my final home base for a (half) day of hiking. 
After a couple quick pictures of an empty Sand Beach I took a round-about trail to Great Head. I saw an Ovenbird!! I have only ever seen one or two while birding along the Texas coast during spring migration so it was a real treat to see one in it's breeding range. There were also a lot of Northern Parula and Black-throated Green Warblers singing all along this trail. I enjoyed the hike and sat watching the waves crash against the rocks for a little while. On my way back I ran into the geology field trip group led by a park ranger. They were heading the way I had just come from so I didn't feel like joining their tour on the spot. I took a more direct path back to Sand Beach before I headed for the Bee Hive trail.

I heard the Bee Hive trail was a fun climb but I was surprised by how exposed some of the sections were. In retrospect, maybe I'm not surprised based on the amount of scrambling I found on other seemingly ordinary trails. Acadia National Park doesn't mess around! I like that though. I think it's important that there are still challenging and risky paths to take in life. We can't expect an ADA trail everywhere we go.
So the climb up was particularly fun and exciting. I tried to capture images of some of the exposure but it hardly does justice. Perhaps the first photo was the creepiest part for me. A grate catwalk with a wall that seemed to push you outwards. Surely having some climbing experience helped me navigate everything with ease but I can imagine a number of people being appropriately fearful of this traverse. I managed a good shot of four hikers working their way up that gives a nice perspective and depth to understand the climb. Everyone let me pass shortly after I snapped the shot because I was moving so quickly. Did I already mentioned how much I loved the minimal speed hiking I did all throughout this trip? Water, binoculars in my fanny pack, and camera around my neck. Running shorts, running shoes, and dri-fit shirt. It was perfect.

I've really come to love swimming and being in the water while living in San Marcos for the past 8 years but I feel like I'm at an all time high for love of water. Every chance I had to take a dip I took it. It's always so mentally and physically cleansing and refreshing. The couple I ran into a few times had suggested I take a swim at the Bowl after hiking the Bee Hive trail. It was everything I hoped for, and more! More, because I saw some GIANT leeches. I don't see those in Texas. Not where I am. Luckily none of them got a hold of my eyeballs but I was glad that I didn't see them until I was done swimming. The water was warmer than the San Marcos and all of these little lakes have clear water but with a very brown color. Unfamiliar to me. I caught my short swim on video.  It was so peaceful.

I wrapped up my stop at the Bowl and continued along the Gorham Mountain trail. I found some more blueberries to munch on at the top of the small peak. Part of the trail had an upper and lower path so I opted for the lower trail that skirted underneath the steep cliffs. There was a trail crew and I slowly surveyed the different tools they were using and what they were trying to accomplish. That looks like hard work! There were some really cool rocks down on this section of the trail. I wish I had taken more time to investigate its geology.
The end of the trail spit me out on the Scenic Loop road where I walked back up along the coastal cliffside. I stopped in one area to snack and lay down. I knew the end of my hiking was near so I began to stall ever so slightly.  I watched the waves, I watched the birds, and I just sat. It's hard to find time to just sit and soak in your surroundings. I really relished every chance I had to do that on this trip.

My very last mission before leaving Sand Beach was to jump in the ocean. I had come this far telling people over and over again how much I loved swimming and being in the water so I knew I had to do it. I had hardly even tested the water with my hand but I knew it was going to be cold. I suited up in my speedo, grabbed my goggles and swimcap, and I charged for the breaking waves at Sand Beach which was now FULL of people. 98% of which weren't anywhere near going in the water. I didn't hesitate or slow down, I charged straight in to the water, first my ankles, then my calves, and thighs, then I dove in. I was shocked. Quite literally. It was so cold it felt like needle pricks all over. I swam freestyle and quickly got a salty taste in my mouth, I tried to move quickly to build some heat but any attempt to warm up in that water was futile. I dove a few feet under to see better. The water was BEAUTIFUL. just a foot below the waves the clarity was amazing, the sand was so clean and I could see all the tiny ripples in it. That brief moment of admiration was quickly met with a shocking reality that my body might very well seize up in water like this. At least I certainly felt that way. I had to get out immediately. The water was too cold for me. Who knows how much time passed. A minute? Three minutes? Surely less than five. I got out of the water with zero regrets and some lasting stinging sensations. I later found tiny invertebrates (or something) on my skin. I'm not sure if they had anything to do with the stinging or not. 
I sat in the shade to drip dry, watched some kids dig channels to guide the receding water. That's some great hands on engineering.  A real resume builder. I did some more sitting after I rinsed off with a little foot shower. I chowed down on one of my last apples and forced down some kipper snacks on cinnamon raisin  bread. I was pretty tired of kipper snacks on cinnamon raisin bread by day 6.
Just oneeee last stop before leaving this beautiful place. I drove up to Cadillac Mountain for the final goodbye. Up there I was delighted to meet a gentleman with a telescope for viewing the sun. It was fascinating, you could see sunspots and the big flare/arches around the perimeter. Really breath taking. I snapped a couple more shots of a less washed out view from the top and that was it. Time to go back to Portland. I had a flight to catch the next day. I would end up sleeping in a walmart parking lot that night, and fortunately it wasn't nearly as bad as it sounds. I took it in stride, and soaked up the experience. I'd do it again even.

Day 7 doesn't quite deserve its own post. I woke up in the parking lot. Watched another car -sleeper button up his shirt and get ready for the day. I bought a bagel with cream cheese from the Dunkin' Donuts inside Walmart and then I went back to the familiar area I knew to watch for my Couch Surfing host run by on his Half Marathon. Seeing all those people race sent me over the edge and I decided I was going to finally sign up for my own half marathon. And as of now I have held true to my wish. I will be running the San Antonio Rock N' Roll marathon on December 6th, 2015.
With just a couple more hours to kill I decided to check out the farmer's market which ended up being a really nice experience. Most notably from laying in the grass beneath a beautiful oak tree as a beautiful harpist performed her magic. It was pure bliss.

I didn't manage to wake up particularly early. Sometimes the ground just feels so good, you know? Nevertheless, Day 5 was my chance to utilize the mountain bike in my possession. Acadia National Park has 57 miles of glorified fire roads that they call the Carriage Roads. They circle and traverse the central region of Mount Desert Island. My intentions were to bike the carriage roads and mix in some hikes/peaks in between. There was a tiny parking lot at Bubble Pond where I lucked out by getting a spot for the car. 
After riding a mile or two on the carriage roads I made it to my first hike. A straight shot up to Sargent Mtn. I found myself again impressed by the technical difficulty of the trails in this park. It was a steep climb and had me dripping from the brow.  Before making it to the peak I stopped and sat for a few minutes to listen to the beautiful White-throated Sparrows singing in the small pine trees. At the top of the mountain I ended up running into the same couple who I spoke to about seeing Peregrine Falcons (you can see their in the picture of the peak marker) and it sounded like they were having continued luck seeing impressive birds. I told them I was planning to go for a swim in a little pond below Sargent Mtn and they told me I needed to check out the Bowl to go for a swim after climbing Bee Hive. And just like that my Day 6 plans were made. I must admit how nice it was to make my plans on the fly and have the freedom to do whatever I wanted. That's definitely one of the best perks about traveling solo.

With great anticipation I headed down to the nearby pond for a swim as recommended by the park ranger who set me up with my campsite. The quick dip in the water was awesome. Getting in water really seems to keep me going in life. Whether it be my beloved San Marcos river at home, Barton Springs in Austin, or these fantastic lakes and ponds tucked into far away mountains. Over the past 8 years being in the water has become so natural to me. I feel like a true San Martian and water lover. After my swim I made a very brief detour for Penobscot Mtn. Moving along I descended the trail back towards the mountain bike and snapped some stream and fungus pictures. I also asked a trail crew a few questions about building stairs and how they drill and break rocks in clean fractures.

I made it back to the bike and continued along a big loop around Jordan Pond. I started to be around a lot more people, especially at the Jordan Pond House restaurant and gift shop. I stuck around just long enough to refill my water. 
The couple on the mountain also recommended I check out Connor's Nubble. A small overlook with great views. I was down for any recommendations. I continued the loop and made it back to where my car was parked but started the first section of the loop again to check out the overlook. Connor's Nubble may have been one of my favorite part's of my trip. I sat up there for about two hours laying down, picking blueberries, watching birds, taking pictures, reflecting on life. It was magical. I only saw about 6 people that entire time. I had felt like I had the place to myself. I did a falcon but blew an amazing opportunity and spooked the bird when it was VERY close to me. I was able to watch it fly away and based on the size I initial saw I felt it was likely a Merlin and not Peregrine Falcon. I also observed huge flocks of gulls feeding/drinking? in the lake and then riding the thermal plumes and soaring in kettles. They were tiny tiny specks far away. Invisible to the naked eye.

I wrapped up my adventures in the center of Mount Desert Island and began a roundabout drive to Bar Harbor where i'd pick up some pizza (inspired by the couple from the top of Cadillac Mountain.) On the drive I found a little overlook on a preserve held by the Maine Coast Heritage Trust which was a nice little stop. I was impressed by the hustle and bustle of Bar Harbor. I found the visitor center to soak up a few minutes of WiFi find the best place to pick up a pizza! I think I could have ordered a better pizza. It was a veggie with lots of fresh tomato, and I should have known that it'd be very moist. None of the cheese or toppings stayed on while I tried to eat it. It wasn't enough to stop me though. I sat on a bench and watched a family toss a frisbee, was greeted by a pretty gull, and gave away a slice of pizza to a stranger. Odd but satisfying mix. My last goal for the evening was to swing by the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse near by campground. I didn't think it would close after dusk but I still made it in time for 15 minutes of shooting. I would have stayed longer but I got chased of by bird-sized mosquitoes.

The same day in Texas my Dad watched a travel channel-type show about Bar Harbor and had told me it was really cool and should check it out. He didn't realize I was literally already there and taking pictures of the exact same park and pavilion he was seeing on TV. I didn't get his message until the next day.

I didn't have any lodging accommodations for my 4th and 5th nights of vacation so I decided it was the perfect time to head a few hours up the coast to Acadia National Park. Everyone told me to take the scenic Route 1 through the coastal villages but I ended up taking the windiest, shortest distance route that shaved off only a handful of minutes of travel time. 

Just before crossing into Mount Desert Island I stopped by the visitors center where I caught a huge stroke of luck. The staff called down to the Seawall campground and scored me the last campsite for two nights, as long as I made it down within the hour.  Mission received, and executed. I made it. I secured a patch of dirt to pitch a tent for two nights! I got camp set up and still had several hours of daylight to kill so I hit up the Acadia Mountain trail. A prominent peak between the lower 48's only fjord, Somes Sound, and Echo Lake. This was my first major hike of my trip and the I immediately recognized how technical these trails were. Within the first 1/4 mile I was doing some decent scrambling that I wouldn't expect everyone to be comfortable traversing. I was minimally packed with a fanny-pack so I flew up the trails.

I got up and over the Acadia Mountain trail and had my choice of more peaks or just heading back to the car. Which way do you think I went? My first choice was actually closed for Peregrine Falcon nesting, but yes, I opted for more peaks! I came across a couple hanging out at a nice overlook and noticed their binoculars so I asked if they had seen any falcons. The man had at one of the other lakes! So I was somewhat hopeful of the opportunity to see falcons or eagles! I scrambled up to Valley Peak and St. Sauveur Mtn, neither of which had great views themselves but the journey was splendid. While descending back to the parking lot I spent some time soaking up the amazing songs of the Hermit thrush that chimed through the forest. It was an amazing sound that really struck a chord with me. The best I can describe it is that I felt like I could sit and listen to them sing forever and every little problem in the world would be OK. Somewhere on this trail I also racked my brain trying to figure out a joke about a tree walking into a bar and a conflict of which sports team he was "rooting" for. I tried the joke on my brother but it flopped. Twice.  It'll never be said again. Lastly, I knew there was swimming allowed in Echo Lake and accessible from the same trailhead I was returning to. I made it down to the lake and had an extremely satisfying dip in the water that served as one of my few "showers" while in the National Park. The water was choppy from the wind but the temperature was perfect. I guess about 75 degrees.

After my dip in the water I drove up to Cadillac Mountain to catch the sunset. Cadillac Mountain is definitely one of the most popular sites in the park and in my mind, why spend my precious time hiking to a point that can be driven to? I'll use that hiking time and energy on less accessible sites. The top is a big round dome so I checked out a couple sides of the dome offering different views but none having much of a western view for the sunset. I noted another viewing area a 1/4 mile below the peak and drove down there to take some pictures. It was packed with sunset watchers. I sat alone snapping pictures and recognized probably 98% of the people out there were not alone.  And I was especially jealous of the young couple who brought up a box of pizza to share while watching the sunset. I was never unhappy to be alone but it was just noteworthy observation because of all the time I spent alone there were countless moments that would have been beautiful to share with another soul.

My amazing Couch Surfing host Shayne let me borrow his Mountain Bike for the next few days. I parked my car in the Back Cove parking lot, fueled up on some grocery store breakfast biscuits and rode off to the Portland Paddle to catch a sea Kayak tour of the bay. I showed up unannounced and politely stated I wanted to go on a tour. They asked if I had reservations, and of course I didn't, but luckily there was plenty of room for the morning's excursion. In fact, there were only a total of 4 guests. A couple from Brooklyn (Colby and T) and a woman up from D.C. named Caroline (I think) who  was also traveling solo. We partnered up in a tandem sea kayak and it was my first time to paddle in a spray skirt. Our tour guide was Calla. Like California. Except if you leave off the -fornia then it doesn't really work.

I only packed my phone in the dry bag so bear with the photos. Fort Gorges was a defense fort that never saw any action. By the time of it's completion the cannon technology of the mid 1800s advanced beyond the purpose of the fort. Calla showed us the Grand Magazine, the ammunition room that is hidden behind a pitch black maze which many people don't know exists. And she also took us to the top where a single gun (cannon) remained. The vegetation has taken its tole on the structure's integrity causing some large cracks over arches. In the pictures notice the low tide. Later I would see the water all the way up to the base of the fort.

After the three-hour kayak tour (we finished off by seeing some seals on a rock island) I was starving and went to experience some decadent lobster at Even Tide, a recommendation by Shayne my Couch Surfing host. I got the tiny $15 Lobster Roll and a locally brewed cider named "Dry Cidah" which is fits the skewed Boston accent of Maine. I wasn't completely full after my tiny meal so I made my way to the ferry port and got a pink hot dog. Apparently they're "snappier". My plan for the rest of the day was to take my bike and catch the ferry to Peaks Island. The ferry ride was enjoyable. Lots of wind in my hair :)

At the ferry port I picked up a bike loop map with a couple attractions/sights to see. Bicycling was clearly the best way to experience Peaks Island, and one of my favorite things I noticed was all of the bikes strewn about the lawns. It reminded me of summer as a child where you just ride around the neighborhood and drop your bike in front of your destination. Not kickstands, no locks, no worries. Your bike will be there when you get back. Shayne later suggested you'd have a hard time stealing a bike off the island so it's of no concern. Island life. Sounds great. I zoomed around the first half of the loop, stopping at every little cove overlook and cove I could find. Nothing too dramatic but it was very pleasant. 

Hidden Trail #1: I was cruising around a curve (shortly after seeing the two horses) and either a pretty girl or a tree swallow caught my eye. Or maybe both. What I know for sure is I followed the Tree Swallow and noticed it flew over a little wetland/pond area, and then I saw a short wooden post with a tiny 3-inch sign demarcating a trail. The trail barely existed. Summer's growth is winning the fight but it was still navigable. I locked my bike to a tree (not going to risk it being all alone on a random island in a random state) and explore the trail. It was great! Very lush, very birdy, and way off the beaten path. I definitely had many moments of feeling "how did I end up here?" and those are my favorite moments in life. Head back to my bike I was stalked by a giant friendly dog. It could have been a bear, right? I came across the dog and its owner one more time at the Battle Steele.

Hidden Trail #2: After making it out of hidden wetlands trail a heavy fog started to roll in, the temperature dropped, and the wind picked up. I continued traveling along the big loop around the island when I saw a pair of bikes at another trailhead. I decided to take my bike with into the trail and it was another wetland, but this time it was rickety planks nailed together that were keeping me dry. The trail weaved through giant reeds and then I approached one of the most eerie and bizarre settings of my life. The Battle Steele. The change of weather, the overgrown trail, and a giant graffitied cement structure all added up to feeling like I was in another world. I felt like I was on a lost island or in Jurassic Park, or the TV show "Lost" if you're familiar. I had to remind myself that I WAS on an island, but it didn't seem like that type of island. This huge military fort thing was two giant structures connected by a giant tunnel. I didn't have a light so I didn't get to go in the tunnel but you could see the daylight peaking out at the other end. They were maybe 100-yards apart. It's dated 1942 so this was in the middle of WWII and you can just feel the same tension and energy lurking around this place. The whole discovery and experience of this trail and...fort thing..truly blew me away. I couldn't believe where I was but I loved every second.

Hidden Trail #3 and beyond: After leaving the Battle Steele I found yet another small wooden post with a tiny sign saying something along the lines of "historical trail". I thought I was going to maybe see some log cabins or other interesting relics but none was found. The felled tree followed by the beaver who felled said tree was a pleasant surprise though. He slapped his tail at me, I don't think he liked me hanging around his pond. Fine by me because I had more exploring to do. Exiting the historical trail I backtracked on the Island loop to make sure I didn't miss anything cool. I just caught some ominous ocean views of the heavy clouds with the sunshine trying to peak through the horizon. There was also a heavily cairn-ed site which was pretty impressive. It seems like everyone does their little piece of the puzzle and manages to keep a satisfying grove of cairns alive in perpetuity. It must be a past-time for the locals. It sure is in Austin.

Back to Portland: I caught the ferry back to Portland at the perfect time. It started to rain just as we were arriving so I hung out at the visitor center to harvest their WiFi and let the rain pass. I scoured yelp and ended up finding Federal Spice, a Jamaican restaurant, to grab a giant meal. I was famished after such a great day of exploration and discovery. I ordered the jerk chicken as recommended by the staff but they warned me it was spicy. They clearly didn't know I was from Texas. I ordered the meal and an extra side of fries and I demolished it all within the 10 minutes I had before they closed. I was satisfied. What a great way to round off a day. I made my way back to Back Cove to grab my car and head to meet Shayne at his house. I snapped a few sunset pictures before leaving the park.  This was my last night with Shayne and we went out for some drinks at Novare Res Bier Cafe, it was sort of like a dungeon and they had special chalices locked and reserved in a vault for their biggest patrons. We played cornhole and I lost to everyone but I learned I like to throw it overhand. Must be a quarterback thing.

I woke up a little later than I'd prefer for a vacation but I walked 10 minutes to my car, fueled up with some breakfast at Whole Foods and made my way to a place called the Fore River Sanctuary. I had added Jewel Falls to my list of things to do on Trip Adviser and 5 minutes into my hike I happened to find it. Not even knowing it was in this park.

I was pumped up about my trip after enjoying some nature and solitude, and my next idea was to check out some of the lighthouses in South Portland. Two small lighthouses just across the harbor from portland were Bug Light and Spring Point Ledge lighthouses. There were a few cool historical educational displays that talked about the ship building that occurred during WWII and the list of ships built during that time is quite lengthy and impressive. If I remember correctly they were cranking out a warship in around 60 days.

The last stop of the day was Ft. Williams, a great free municipal park home to the beautiful Portland Head Light. This was the coolest lighthouse I saw the entire trip and my first look at the classic rocky ocean cliffs of Maine. I was really impressed by the native landscaping and historical features available at this park. This region seems rich in history that is unfamiliar to me in San Marcos. I spent the rest of my afternoon here until I got a call from my Couch Surfing accommodation who was needing to meet up sooner than later. I made my way back to Portland to meet my host, they had a burger patty waiting for me and we went for a nice sunset walk at Back Cove park before shutting in for the night.