My amazing Couch Surfing host Shayne let me borrow his Mountain Bike for the next few days. I parked my car in the Back Cove parking lot, fueled up on some grocery store breakfast biscuits and rode off to the Portland Paddle to catch a sea Kayak tour of the bay. I showed up unannounced and politely stated I wanted to go on a tour. They asked if I had reservations, and of course I didn't, but luckily there was plenty of room for the morning's excursion. In fact, there were only a total of 4 guests. A couple from Brooklyn (Colby and T) and a woman up from D.C. named Caroline (I think) who was also traveling solo. We partnered up in a tandem sea kayak and it was my first time to paddle in a spray skirt. Our tour guide was Calla. Like California. Except if you leave off the -fornia then it doesn't really work.
I only packed my phone in the dry bag so bear with the photos. Fort Gorges was a defense fort that never saw any action. By the time of it's completion the cannon technology of the mid 1800s advanced beyond the purpose of the fort. Calla showed us the Grand Magazine, the ammunition room that is hidden behind a pitch black maze which many people don't know exists. And she also took us to the top where a single gun (cannon) remained. The vegetation has taken its tole on the structure's integrity causing some large cracks over arches. In the pictures notice the low tide. Later I would see the water all the way up to the base of the fort.
I only packed my phone in the dry bag so bear with the photos. Fort Gorges was a defense fort that never saw any action. By the time of it's completion the cannon technology of the mid 1800s advanced beyond the purpose of the fort. Calla showed us the Grand Magazine, the ammunition room that is hidden behind a pitch black maze which many people don't know exists. And she also took us to the top where a single gun (cannon) remained. The vegetation has taken its tole on the structure's integrity causing some large cracks over arches. In the pictures notice the low tide. Later I would see the water all the way up to the base of the fort.
After the three-hour kayak tour (we finished off by seeing some seals on a rock island) I was starving and went to experience some decadent lobster at Even Tide, a recommendation by Shayne my Couch Surfing host. I got the tiny $15 Lobster Roll and a locally brewed cider named "Dry Cidah" which is fits the skewed Boston accent of Maine. I wasn't completely full after my tiny meal so I made my way to the ferry port and got a pink hot dog. Apparently they're "snappier". My plan for the rest of the day was to take my bike and catch the ferry to Peaks Island. The ferry ride was enjoyable. Lots of wind in my hair :)
At the ferry port I picked up a bike loop map with a couple attractions/sights to see. Bicycling was clearly the best way to experience Peaks Island, and one of my favorite things I noticed was all of the bikes strewn about the lawns. It reminded me of summer as a child where you just ride around the neighborhood and drop your bike in front of your destination. Not kickstands, no locks, no worries. Your bike will be there when you get back. Shayne later suggested you'd have a hard time stealing a bike off the island so it's of no concern. Island life. Sounds great. I zoomed around the first half of the loop, stopping at every little cove overlook and cove I could find. Nothing too dramatic but it was very pleasant.
Hidden Trail #1: I was cruising around a curve (shortly after seeing the two horses) and either a pretty girl or a tree swallow caught my eye. Or maybe both. What I know for sure is I followed the Tree Swallow and noticed it flew over a little wetland/pond area, and then I saw a short wooden post with a tiny 3-inch sign demarcating a trail. The trail barely existed. Summer's growth is winning the fight but it was still navigable. I locked my bike to a tree (not going to risk it being all alone on a random island in a random state) and explore the trail. It was great! Very lush, very birdy, and way off the beaten path. I definitely had many moments of feeling "how did I end up here?" and those are my favorite moments in life. Head back to my bike I was stalked by a giant friendly dog. It could have been a bear, right? I came across the dog and its owner one more time at the Battle Steele.
Hidden Trail #2: After making it out of hidden wetlands trail a heavy fog started to roll in, the temperature dropped, and the wind picked up. I continued traveling along the big loop around the island when I saw a pair of bikes at another trailhead. I decided to take my bike with into the trail and it was another wetland, but this time it was rickety planks nailed together that were keeping me dry. The trail weaved through giant reeds and then I approached one of the most eerie and bizarre settings of my life. The Battle Steele. The change of weather, the overgrown trail, and a giant graffitied cement structure all added up to feeling like I was in another world. I felt like I was on a lost island or in Jurassic Park, or the TV show "Lost" if you're familiar. I had to remind myself that I WAS on an island, but it didn't seem like that type of island. This huge military fort thing was two giant structures connected by a giant tunnel. I didn't have a light so I didn't get to go in the tunnel but you could see the daylight peaking out at the other end. They were maybe 100-yards apart. It's dated 1942 so this was in the middle of WWII and you can just feel the same tension and energy lurking around this place. The whole discovery and experience of this trail and...fort thing..truly blew me away. I couldn't believe where I was but I loved every second.
Hidden Trail #3 and beyond: After leaving the Battle Steele I found yet another small wooden post with a tiny sign saying something along the lines of "historical trail". I thought I was going to maybe see some log cabins or other interesting relics but none was found. The felled tree followed by the beaver who felled said tree was a pleasant surprise though. He slapped his tail at me, I don't think he liked me hanging around his pond. Fine by me because I had more exploring to do. Exiting the historical trail I backtracked on the Island loop to make sure I didn't miss anything cool. I just caught some ominous ocean views of the heavy clouds with the sunshine trying to peak through the horizon. There was also a heavily cairn-ed site which was pretty impressive. It seems like everyone does their little piece of the puzzle and manages to keep a satisfying grove of cairns alive in perpetuity. It must be a past-time for the locals. It sure is in Austin.
Back to Portland: I caught the ferry back to Portland at the perfect time. It started to rain just as we were arriving so I hung out at the visitor center to harvest their WiFi and let the rain pass. I scoured yelp and ended up finding Federal Spice, a Jamaican restaurant, to grab a giant meal. I was famished after such a great day of exploration and discovery. I ordered the jerk chicken as recommended by the staff but they warned me it was spicy. They clearly didn't know I was from Texas. I ordered the meal and an extra side of fries and I demolished it all within the 10 minutes I had before they closed. I was satisfied. What a great way to round off a day. I made my way back to Back Cove to grab my car and head to meet Shayne at his house. I snapped a few sunset pictures before leaving the park. This was my last night with Shayne and we went out for some drinks at Novare Res Bier Cafe, it was sort of like a dungeon and they had special chalices locked and reserved in a vault for their biggest patrons. We played cornhole and I lost to everyone but I learned I like to throw it overhand. Must be a quarterback thing.