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  Birdsiview

McKittrick Canyon, November 2018

Autumn in McKittrick Canyon

11/1/2018

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I've been to the Guadalupe Mountains National Park many times but I've never had the opportunity to visit McKittrick Canyon, which is most well known for its Big Tooth Maple trees that turn their leaves in the Fall. I have been to Lost Maples State Natural Area in Bandera County which is more accessible and more visited but McKittrick Canyon in the Fall has always been on my bucket list. This year I was set on scheduling my West Texas work trips for the fall so I could piggyback on the long haul and finally have a chance to experience the hike and thus it happened.

McKittrick Canyon is only open for day use so I finished a work visit on Halloween day and made my way up to the Pine Springs campground at the National Park (where I just slept in my car) to be ready to hit McKittrick Canyon first thing in the morning. I didn't really know that much about the hike itself but I just figured I'd go as far as I felt comfortable with. I saw a little recommendation about hiking to "The Grotto" which always sounds like a good idea so I knew I at least wanted to do that. Below is a map of my 10 mile hike into and out of McKittrick Canyon.
Picture
Arriving to the canyon in the morning was mostly overcast and very windy. The first thing I noticed on the road in were deep red veins down the front range of the mountains. It looked like the mountain's blood vessels but sure enough it was my first look at the maple trees. I took a bunch of photos, not knowing how much it would pale in comparison to what I was about to experience. 

The hike to the Grotto meanders for about 3.5 miles through the bottom of the canyon, in and out of the stream so the elevation change is minimal. The beginning of the trail was VERY windy and just looked like normal drab desert habitat until you pass around the first horseshoe where everything changes. The wind dies, the creek holds water, and you start seeing pops of color. I was pretty thrilled and snapping photos every which way, soaking in a very serene and tranquil morning through the canyon. Surprisingly, the Grotto itself was kind of the most lackluster part of the whole hike leading to it, and I guess I ought to include a picture just to prove it to you. I guess I'm just spoiled by Hill Country grottos such as Reimer's Ranch.

It only took me about an hour and half to reach the Grotto so I still had tons of energy and a full day to explore, so the obvious decision was to keep going! The next marker on the map was called "The Notch" which looked like it was going to be a pass over a ridge. I set off for the Notch and to my pleasure, the sun started to fight its way through the clouds. Every step I took led me to better views of the canyon I had just hiked up with maple trees dotted all along the way.
The tiny little Grotto
The first 3.5 miles to the Grotto gained about 630 ft in elevation, the next 1.5 miles was about 1,350 ft up the side of the mountain. I think that's pretty steep! The closer I got to the Notch the more excited I became but I had no idea what was about to hit me. After a handful of steep switch backs I approached the Notch, which essentially created a window to the back of the canyon, and I was stunned. The features, colors, and topography blew me away. It was one of the most beautiful things I had ever seen. I'm happy with the photos but even so, the feeling of overlooking that part of the canyon can't be translated.

The south side of the canyon is a massive sheer cliff hidden from the sun and leads to a ladder/stair-stepping canyon choked full of colorful maple trees. The layers and shadows and depths of everything brought me pure bliss. There were a few glimpses of the water flowing through slick rock walls and rocky bottoms far in the distance. Giant boulders rest at the bottom of the massive bluffs and speak to where they came from. It was a sensory overload.
After trying to soak it all in I turned around because it didn't seem like there would be new perspectives within a reasonable hiking distance. And I'll admit that I was willing to feel fatigued. So the final chapter of this adventure is the 5 mile return down the canyon and oh boy was the weather and sun just perfect by that time. I couldn't get over my view through the Notch but colors surrounding me on the way back were surreal. Here's a jam-packed peak color photo series. I was on cloud nine and so happy to make this hike on what ended up being the most absolute perfect day.
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