So here we are in Yosemite, our main destination for this trip, for the wedding of our friends Johnny and Maddie. Our first night here was parked outside a cabin in Wawona where Johnny and Maddie's families were staying. But first, let's back up just a minute. Jess knew there was a possibility of hiking Half Dome with Johnny and his brothers, and Johnny had at least one permit with Jess's name on it. We were never sure if everything would come together or whether I'd be able to join. The permitting system is kind of a shit show and Jess and I never really talked at length about plans to do the hike. As we were arriving to Yosemite late in the evening, it started to be clear that I'd be able to join the hike and everything was looking good to go..FIRST THING IN THE MORNING. Jess wasn't sure how I'd respond but I gave her a solid "yes" without hesitation. So back to the cabin in Wawona, we show up after dark and are welcomed by the whole gang but time was limited, everyone needed to prepare for the big day on the trail. We fill up all of our waters, prepare PB&J sandwiches and snacks, pack our bags, and we hit the hay to catch a few hours of sleep.
Wawona is about 45 min. - 1 hr. from the trailhead parking area and we wanted to give ourselves the entire day to hike the 15-18 mile (sources vary) trek so we woke up before dawn and hit the road.
Wawona is about 45 min. - 1 hr. from the trailhead parking area and we wanted to give ourselves the entire day to hike the 15-18 mile (sources vary) trek so we woke up before dawn and hit the road.
There were 8 of us on the hike. Me, Jess, Johnny, two of his brothers, his soon-to-be brother-in-law and two long-time friends. All 8 of us made it to the trail according to plan and began our hike! I think the first thing we noticed was that it was just up, up, and up. A relentless incline that quickly dictates your sustainable pace. The first half of the hike follows the Merced River and later veers off to wrap around the backside of half-dome.
First we hiked a half mile along the road from the parking lot and crossed the river. I think this is where the trail officially begins. We follow the river upstream and come around a major bend of Sierra Point before crossing the Vernal Falls Bridge (first pictures below). After crossing the bridge there is an option to take a more gradual, but longer route, or climb directly up the "Mist Trail" that goes right in front of Vernal Falls. We chose the latter! It lived up to its name and seems to be perpetually shrouded in mist from the splash of the waterfall. The photos show how steep the trail is and how soggy we were. Grade A booty bustin'!
First we hiked a half mile along the road from the parking lot and crossed the river. I think this is where the trail officially begins. We follow the river upstream and come around a major bend of Sierra Point before crossing the Vernal Falls Bridge (first pictures below). After crossing the bridge there is an option to take a more gradual, but longer route, or climb directly up the "Mist Trail" that goes right in front of Vernal Falls. We chose the latter! It lived up to its name and seems to be perpetually shrouded in mist from the splash of the waterfall. The photos show how steep the trail is and how soggy we were. Grade A booty bustin'!
There is a nice scenic overlook at the top of Vernal Falls. Not pictured is the Emerald Pool that lies above the waterfall and the "Silver Apron" chute that pours into it. A bridge crosses the river at the top of the "Silver Apron" and offers a glimpse of Half Dome behind a narrow canyon. At 2.75 miles you're greeted with some great views of the second waterfall, Nevada Falls, as you climb steep stairs in a scree field.
Once you're above Nevada Falls (which has a toilet!) there is a long flat stretch of trail next to the river with calm pools, I think it's called Little Yosemite Canyon. Johnny was spotting fish he wished he could catch and we all enjoyed a nice break from the steep incline. In the last photo of this section is Steven Guerra, Johnny's brother, and it perfectly characterizes his presence and the way he enjoyed the trail. Steven, very active and fit, was hopping around the trails like a mountain goat while the rest of us were usually catching our breaths. Steven was the only one not in any sort of hiking boot/shoe, he just had his lightweight Nike's with no ankle support of any kind. We also gave Steven a hard time for packing a grand total of two 20 oz water bottles. At one point I watched him suck down his last few drops, crush the bottle, and throw it in his bag. I asked.. "Steven, do you have any more water?" and he shrugged it off and assured me he was fine. Well I'll tell you what. That little energizer bunny didn't slow down the entire day and sure made do with what he had. By the end of it all, he tacked on more miles than anyone else simply by repeatedly going ahead and coming back after being tired of waiting. Steven had no problem, but don't be like Steven, bring some water and wear your boots, folks!
This whole hike so far is basically along the John Muir trail (except for the Mist Trail shortcut) and shortly after we veer away from the Merced River, and about 5.75 miles in, we reach the Half Dome Trail spur and the Ranger checkpoint. We were all legal and began the final leg of the hike. At 6.5 miles you come up over the edge of a ridge and a treated to a great view of Tenaya Canyon (home of the Mirror Lake) and Half Dome. There is a nice flat stretch after this point that leads up to the base of Sub Dome, the precursor to Half Dome. Notice the photo with the zig-zag stairs of Sub Dome in the foreground and "the cables" strung up the side of Half Dome.
Sub Dome was a test of our commitment to reaching the top of Half Dome. It was very steep, and quite exposed. Buddy is photographed giving me signs of encouragement. We had to stop for a breather and I think the picture says a lot. We're looking pretty beat and even Steven needed some of Jess's water. 6 of us eventually made it to the top of Sub Dome and were looking at the cables right in front of us. None of us were psyched to attempt it. As we sat and watched the folks on the cables it looked like they were all at a stand still, perhaps a traffic jam. It's a ridiculous system of steel posts loosely fitted into a drilled holes, wooden boards strapped to each pair of poles, and a pair cables running the entire length of the climb. There were dozens of pairs of community gloves piled up at the bottom and and everyone moving very slowly. There are people going up and down in single file lines so you're at the mercy of the people around you. Some folks wore climbing harnesses and tethered in to every section of cable between poles.
I felt pretty uninterested in climbing the cables and dealing with everything I described, and others seemed to feel the same way as me. We sat for a while, contemplated our decisions. We asked every group that had just come down from the cables how it was. No one gave us an encouraging review. But then there was that one hefty dude, and he brushed the whole thing off. I think that empowered us. If HE could do it, then surely WE could do it. And slowly, once one or two of us found the courage, the others around us gravitated towards the idea. I think David and I were the last ones to come around. So the 6 of us did it.
I didn't enjoy any second of it. Once I was on top I couldn't stop thinking about having to climb down the cables. The anxiety really got to me. I hardly took any photos so enjoy these photos by Jess!
I didn't enjoy any second of it. Once I was on top I couldn't stop thinking about having to climb down the cables. The anxiety really got to me. I hardly took any photos so enjoy these photos by Jess!
I didn't start taking photos again until I was back down onto Sub Dome. I was just so sick to my stomach, which is a shame! Also Jess was standing way to close to the edge for my comfort. Aye aye aye..
Now it was time to hike back after at least 9 hours on the trail. Before going too far, we found a cool little spring and refilled some water and took an extended snack break on some big trees. Also, for the record, my outfit was running shorts with a UV blocking field shirt and my Tilley hat. It was definitely a legs-for-days kind of thing. No shame.
I thought we were going to sail down the mountain but constantly "putting on the brakes" took a lot of energy and wore out a whole new set of muscles. The sun beat down hard in the afternoon and everything and everyone around me started to become a blur. We passed people doing short hikes to Vernal falls and I felt like I was in my own world. I had been through the gauntlet and they were just having a pleasant stroll.
I thought we were going to sail down the mountain but constantly "putting on the brakes" took a lot of energy and wore out a whole new set of muscles. The sun beat down hard in the afternoon and everything and everyone around me started to become a blur. We passed people doing short hikes to Vernal falls and I felt like I was in my own world. I had been through the gauntlet and they were just having a pleasant stroll.
Jess and I ended up being the last ones off the trail. Our bodies were telling us that enough is enough and every step ached. And yet, we stuck with each other all the way down, through the thick and thin, and we made it back. Jess's phone clocked 20.8 miles, which is surely subject to some margin of error, but we know one thing for sure, we felt like we hiked that far. We were proud of ourselves and felt so blessed to embark on such an exciting adventure with such great people.
Lastly, here are photos from the man, Johnny G, himself. I didn't look at his photos until I finished writing the story I wanted to tell and I love how perfectly the emotions he captured fits into everything I remembered.
Thanks for having me, Johnny.